There are few wines in the Gundog Estate range as personal as M BURTON. Labelled with nothing more than Matt Burton’s abbreviated name and the values he holds closest — love, courage and integrity — the range has become the purest expression of his winemaking philosophy: thoughtful experimentation, genuine technical risk, and a willingness to challenge convention that most producers wouldn’t attempt.

Across four very different releases, spanning audacious multi-vintage blends and single-season expressions, this collection of reviews traces a project that keeps finding new ways to surprise even Gundog Estate’s most seasoned followers.

NV M BURTON RIESLING I

The second wine ever released under the M BURTON name, Riesling I, is a multi-vintage blend of Canberra District fruit from Murrumbateman and Gundaroo, harvested across 2018, 2019, 2021 and 2022, and matured for up to four years in a patchwork of tanks and barrels before blending. Just 600 bottles were made — and the response from critics was, in Matt Burton’s own words, humbling.

“A most un-Australian riesling, just slightly off-dry but the sweetness is perfectly harmonised. A special wine.” Huon Hooke, 96 points (www.therealreview.com)

“A Multi Vintage of fruit from vineyards in Murrumbateman and Gundaroo… This may seem chaotic but instead it is exceptionally fastidious. A striking and stunning wine. Genre defining and defying.” Regan Drew, 96 points (www.vinonotebook.com)

“It is courageous and confronting and will not be for everyone, but it is done well.” Erin Larkin, 95 points (www.robertparker.com)

“It is an absolute cracker and probably the best wine yet out of Gundog Estate… the palate is expressive but reserved, more classic Riesling lines but also with exceptional texture and balance.” Angus Hughson, 94 points (www.winepilot.com)

 

2025 M BURTON RIESLING

This latest single-vintage M BURTON release is a Riesling from the family’s Gundaroo vineyard. A dry growing season this year led to even ripening and excellent acid retention. The fruit was pressed more firmly than usual, followed by a wild ferment in older barrels and twelve months on lees — a more European approach than the label’s earlier releases. Just 90 dozen were made.

“The wine was worth the extra effort and worth tracking down. It has excellent fruit intensity but it’s the elegance on the palate that really defines it. It feels soft, direct and lengthy… Beautiful riesling.” Campbell Mattinson, 94+ points (www.campbellmattinson.com)

NV M BURTON SHIRAZ II

The second release of the label’s super-premium, non-vintage Shiraz, Shiraz II, draws on Murrumbateman fruit from four separate harvests — 2023, 2022, 2019 and 2018 — and is wild-fermented in open tanks, with some parcels spending over twelve months on skins. Only 600 bottles have been made. For every bottle sold, Gundog Estate donates five dollars to Path 2 Change to help break the cycle of youth homelessness and plants a tree with 15 Trees to help regenerate natural habitats.

“We don’t see many multi-vintage reds, especially at this price level, but this terrific wine from the Canberra region might have a few makers rethinking this… Excellent balance and real persistence through to silky tannins here. It will provide pleasure over fifteen to twenty years. A cracking effort.” Ken Gargett, 96 points (www.winepilot.com)

“Beautifully dark and shiny colour thanks to the extended time on skin. Floral, delicate, understated and complex… Delicate and assured… The palate is seamless, a flowing and silken thing that feels effortless.” Regan Drew, 96 points (www.vinonotebook.com)

“The idea is to explore texture and complexity, says winemaker Matt Burton, alongside an attractive youthful fruit drive. Yep, it works. There’s an intrigue and complexity to the aromas and flavours… Super cool.” Halliday Wine Companion, 95 points (www.winecompanion.com.au)

2023 M BURTON SHIRAZ

Sourced primarily from the Long Rail Gully vineyard in Murrumbateman, with a small addition from the Wallaroo vineyard in Hall, the 2023 M BURTON Shiraz marked the label’s return to a single-vintage release. Wild-fermented and left on skins for around three hundred days before maturing in a one-year-old French puncheon, only fifty dozen were made — a tiny production that critics have called some of the most distinctive Canberra District Shiraz being made anywhere.

“There is something very alluring about this M Burton 2023 Canberra District Shiraz… A fabulous mouthfeel with rivers of fine tannin providing strong support for powerful, savoury dark berry flavours. Superb, and will be long-lived.” Angus Hughson, 96 points (www.winepilot.com)

“The result is medium weight, with these rafts of fine, powdery tannins that are very un-classic Shiraz… dark-fruited, powerful, and glossy… I dig it.” Andrew Graham, 95 points (www.ozwinereview.com)

“Not your typical Shiraz, but an entrancing one… A supple, creamy texture with a fine line of acidity, silky tannins, excellent balance and serious length. Enjoy over the next ten to fifteen years.” Ken Gargett, 95 points (www.winepilot.com)

“This is a hugely interesting wine, quite unexpected in flavor and shape. All dry herbs, crushed shells, beach sand/wet limestone, plum skin, black cherries and blueberries. It’s elegant and restrained, lean and even a little austere. I like it.” Erin Larkin, 92 points (www.robertparker.com)

A LABEL WORTH WATCHING

M BURTON Riesling I, 2023 M BURTON Shiraz, M BURTON Shiraz II and the 2025 M BURTON Riesling are available now, in extremely limited quantities, via the Gundog Estate cellar doors in Pokolbin and Gundaroo, online here, and through the Gundog Estate Wine Club.