2025 brought another early harvest to Gundog Estate’s high-country vineyards in the Hilltops and Canberra District, with fruit surviving frost, hail, extreme heat and high winds before ripening into what proved an excellent season overall: disease-free, with bold flavours, bright acidity and ideal phenolic ripeness throughout.
This roundup brings together six wines spanning both regions — a pair of Rieslings that showcase how differently the two sites express the variety, a reworked Rosé made for the first time from Shiraz and Sangiovese, and three cool-climate Shiraz from what may be the strongest Hilltops red vintage yet.
2025 CANBERRA DISTRICT RIESLING
Grown on 30-year-old vines at the family’s Gundaroo vineyard — originally planted to Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay in the 1990s, then grafted to Riesling in 2019 and 2020 — the Canberra District Riesling returns after last year’s crop was lost to frost and a Christmas Day hailstorm. Ripening early at around 11 Baumé, the site delivers the lean, citrus-driven style that has become the region’s calling card.
“Yeasty lemon-pith and faintly nutty aromas, fresh clean and vital… the palate showing tension and length and promising to deliver well with more ageing time. I like the delicacy and refinement of this, allied with superb line and length.” Huon Hooke, 95 points (www.therealreview.com)
“No rizza from the ’24 vintage, thanks to frosts and a nasty hailstorm on Christmas Day. Well this certainly makes up for the heartbreak and loss… Lovely now but will garner more complexity in time.” Jane Faulkner, 95 points (www.winecompanion.com.au)
“Damn fine drinking. Fabulously aromatic, I can feel the sweat being wiped away with each sip… it’s a great drink with a thrilling, fresh vibe that keeps you coming back for more. Yes!” Qwine, 93 points (www.qwinereviews.com)
2025 HILLTOPS RIESLING
Now in its second release, Hilltops Riesling comes from the Freeman Vineyard in Prunevale, cared for by the father-and-daughter team Brian and Marcelle Freeman. Rather than chasing the linear minerality of its Canberra District sibling, the wine leans into Hilltops’ inherent generosity — bolder florals and a richer mouthfeel that highlight how differently the two regions express the same variety.
“Quite the all-rounder… considered, composed and with a quiet resolve. It’s a Riesling with a rounded presence and shape, but there is no mistaking the fine minerally backbone and crisp, cleansing acidity.” Qwine, 90 points (www.qwinereviews.com)
“More depth and richness than its Canberra sibling. Finger lime, star fruit, sourdough, quinine, ozone, Chantilly cream, steel, musk and brown pear… Fine and long green apple acid line.” Regan Drew, 90 points (vinonotebook.com)
2025 ROSÉ
This year’s Rosé marks a genuine departure for the label: built on Shiraz for depth and structure rather than the traditional Cabernet Sauvignon base, complemented by Sangiovese for finesse, and sourced entirely for the first time from Hilltops fruit grown at the Freeman vineyards. The result aims for something more textural and complex than a typical pale, easy-drinking rosé.
“This is a fresh style which is elegant but not lacking in flavour. There is good balance and excellent length. The finish lingers impressively. A really good Rose for enjoying over the next two to three years. Love it.” Ken Gargett, 93 points (www.winepilot.com)
“A big summer of cricket is coming up and I can picture myself settling into a comfy lounge with a glass or two of this Gundog Estate Rosé and a bag of sea salt chips. Bliss!” Qwine, 92 points (www.qwinereviews.com)
“Shows good texture and depth, with a little tannic grip to give frame to some ripe, plush fruit. Acidity is lively with plenty of peppery Shiraz spice. The winemaking shows focus and intent to creating a serious wine in its own right, not just the off-cuts.” Regan Drew, 92 points (www.vinonotebook.com)
2024 HILLTOPS SHIRAZ NO.1
Drawn primarily from the warmer, heavier-soiled Freeman and Hudson vineyards, No.1 showcases the outright generosity of Hilltops Shiraz — immense fruit drive and broad tannin structure, given cool-climate poise by a smaller addition of Moppity fruit. From what may be the region’s strongest red vintage since the landmark 2018s, it’s a wine reviewers have found hard to fault.
“Excellent release. Full of flavour, smooth of texture, fine of tannin and ultimately well sustained. Plums, assorted florals, fistfuls of sweet spice and flashes of both roasted nuts and mint… Yes please to this. It delivers.” Campbell Mattinson, 93+ points (www.winefront.com.au)
“This is slightly more austere and likely more long-lived than the No 2. It finishes with fine powdery tannins. The wine has good balance and length and is surely going to provide pleasure for the next ten to twelve years.” Ken Gargett, 93 points (www.winepilot.com)
“Concentrated dark berry flavours, yet so supple and lively… Supportive acid adds length. So moreish, it’s a beauty for the price.” Rick Allen (www.newcastleherald.com.au)
2024 HILLTOPS SHIRAZ NO.2
Anchored by Roger Clark’s cooler Boorowa vineyard and complemented by fruit from Hudson and Moppity vineyards, No.2 was crafted to showcase the region’s savoury, spice-driven side. Alongside its sibling, it’s helped cement 2024 as arguably the finest Hilltops vintage Gundog Estate has seen.
“The aim here was to highlight the savouriness and the spice that the region can offer. The result is a cracking wine and you will be hard pressed to find better value this year… Love it and what wonderful value it is.” Ken Gargett, 95 points (www.winepilot.com)
“I loved the Gundog Estate Hilltops No.1 but this No.2 is a step up. Tasted side by side, the elevated beauty was obvious as soon as I moved to the No.2… It’s an excellent wine.” Qwine, 94 points (www.qwinereview.com)
“Dusty and spiced nose. There’s plenty of game meat and pan jus, generous dark berry fruit, dark chocolate, coffee grounds, violets, turned brown earth and woody spice.” Regan Drew, 93 points (www.vinonotebook.com)
2024 CANBERRA DISTRICT SHIRAZ
Blending Shiraz from the Wallaroo Vineyard in Hall and from Long Rail Gully in Murrumbateman, the Canberra District Shiraz continues to deliver the region’s signature exotic spice layered over forest berries, framed by a medium body and velvety tannins.
“Scents of lavender and blueberry aromas explode from the glass to make quite the statement here. A delightfully delicious medium-bodied Canberra District Shiraz from Gundog Estate… Great stuff.” Qwine, 93 points (www.qwinereviews.com)
“Quite supple and of medium weight, there are sleek tannins and very good length. Well focused, this wine should provide pleasure for the next eight to ten years.” Ken Gargett, 92 points (www.winepilot.com)
TWO REGIONS, ONE SEASON
All six 2025 High Country releases are now available via the Gundog Estate cellar doors in Pokolbin and Gundaroo, online here, and through the Gundog Estate Wine Club.