When Gundog Estate winemaker Matt Burton and his former Seville Estate colleague Dylan McMahon aren’t busy with their day jobs, the pair come together to craft a small range of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from some of the Yarra Valley’s finest vineyards under their Burton McMahon label — a world away, both geographically and stylistically, from Gundog Estate’s usual Hunter Valley and Canberra District focus. The 2024 vintage has produced four wines that reviewers have quickly hailed as some of the label’s best yet.

2024 BURTON McMAHON D’ALOISIO CHARDONNAY

Grown on red volcanic soils at 230 metres elevation in Seville, the D’Aloisio Vineyard produces a slightly more forward, expressive style of Chardonnay than its Lusatia Park sibling. Hand-picked in late February, whole-bunch pressed and matured for ten months in French oak, the wine’s generous melon and white peach character is framed by a distinctive mid-palate surge of fruit sweetness that reviewers have singled out as the site’s signature.

“It’s tight, lean, long and racy, but the core of fruit is pristine and beautiful… It requires patience but in time this will be a belter of a wine.” Campbell Mattinson, 95 points (www.winefront.com.au)

“This is a more complete and more settled example of Chardonnay than its sibling, at least at this early stage. There is good balance here and very good focus… Very attractive, there is a lingering finish here.” Ken Gargett, 94 points (www.winepilot.com)

“A chardonnay you would be happy to drink from brunch till after hours.” Shanteh Wale, 95 points (www.winepilot.com)

2024 BURTON McMAHON LUSATIA PARK CHARDONNAY

From a north-facing slope in Woori Yallock, 180 metres above sea level, the Lusatia Park Chardonnay adopts a leaner, more finely drawn style than the D’Aloisio, built around lees-derived nutty complexity and a persistent thread of acidity. More than one reviewer has flagged it as a wine still finding its feet — one to watch closely over the next year or two.

“This will be better in a couple of years and should be pretty exciting at that stage. When it does hit its straps, it should plateau and provide enjoyment for at least another eight years.” Ken Gargett, 93 points (www.winepilot.com)

“This is captivating stuff.” Shanteh Wale, 96 points (www.winepilot.com)

“There’s power to the palate and noteworthy length to the finish. This is good now but it will be better again in time… It’s textbook.” Campbell Mattinson, 94+ points (www.winefront.com.au)

2024 BURTON McMAHON SYME PINOT NOIR

Sourced from the east-facing Syme on Yarra vineyard in Seville, this Pinot Noir was picked on two separate dates to build complexity, with 20 to 30 per cent whole bunches included in a wild ferment without temperature control. The result is a perfumed yet structured wine that critics have rated as the standout in this year’s Burton McMahon release.

“Youthful, with its focused aromas of red and black fruits, lifted spice and just a touch of florals. There’s good depth on the richly flavoured, structured and very well-balanced palate. My advice: drink the equally good Lusatia Park Pinot in the short term and make sure you have some of this five to seven years from now.” Halliday Wine Companion, 97 points (www.winecompanion.com.au)

“Everything about this wine feels fine, almost lacy, composed and well placed. Immaculate is the word.” Campbell Mattinson, 94+ points (www.winefront.com.au)

“This is a terrific Pinot for enjoying anytime over the next eight years.” Ken Gargett, 94 points (www.winepilot.com)

“Fruit has been adorned well, highlighting its natural pizazz and uplifting energy.” Shanteh Wale, 96 points (www.winepilot.com)

2024 BURTON McMAHON LUSATIA PARK PINOT NOIR

Lighter and more delicate than the other Pinot Noir, this wine comes from the same Woori Yallock vineyard as its Chardonnay counterpart, with 30% whole bunches and a four-day cold soak before a wild ferment. Lighter and more precise in structure than the Syme, it’s a wine reviewers have praised for its elegance and composure.

“Like all the Burton McMahon wines in ’24, well worth seeking out.” Halliday Wine Companion, 96 points (www.winecompanion.com.au)

“This is a layered Pinot Noir. It’s inherently complex… We’re onto a beauty here.” Campbell Mattinson, 95 points (www.winefront.com.au)

“A lively, dynamic Yarra pinot noir.” Shanteh Wale, 95 points (www.winepilot.com)

“It will provide very attractive drinking over the next five to eight years.” Ken Gargett, 93 points (www.winepilot.com)

TWO FRIENDS, FOUR WINES

All four 2024 Burton McMahon wines are now available in small quantities via the Gundog Estate cellar doors in Pokolbin and Gundaroo, online here, and through the Gundog Estate Wine Club.