M BURTON RIESLING I

The grapes were from vineyards in Murrumbateman and Gundaroo, near Canberra, harvested in 2018, 2019, 2021, and 2022. Various approaches to juice preparation ranged from light pressing and high clarification, through to heavy pressing with little or no settling. As such, fermentation took on very different complexions between parcels, which was further emphasised by whether the individual wine was held in stainless steel tanks, or seasoned French oak barrels. Maturation then occurred either on yeast lees to drive texture and build shape, or as clear wine racked from solids to preserve freshness.

The spectrum of seasons, winemaking techniques, and maturation times, bring together a cacophony of voices which find a compelling harmony under the commonality of variety and region. A fine high note of acidity rides above a core of minerality which holds throughout the wine, forming the platform from which fleeting notes of youthful citrus and stone fruit rise to leap above. Heavier bass tones were built with wild fermentations of cloudy juice and softened over the years by patient development in barrel. These deeper notes drive complexity with their mature tones of lanolin, toast, and honey. The sheer breadth of what is on offer can overwhelm at first, but very quickly the pitch settles and we are left with a Riesling quite unlike any other. This is a wine that sings from a very special song sheet indeed.

• TypeWhite Wine
• VarietyRiesling